How does Venice work?

Understanding the Architectural Marvel that is Venice: A Must-Know for Every Aspiring Photographer

Venice is not just another picturesque destination; it's a feat of human engineering, a city built on water. Every photographer, whether a novice or a professional, stands to gain from understanding this marvel. This knowledge can enhance your photography skills, offering you unique perspectives that go beyond capturing gondolas and sunsets.

Watch the video below to get a comprehensive understanding of how Venice is built and how it works.

Why Venice is an Architectural Marvel

1. Built on Stilts: The most striking feature of Venice is that it's built on wooden stilts driven deep into the marshy ground. These stilts support the buildings you see, making for intriguing angles and reflections for photography.

2. Canal System: The Grand Canal snakes its way through the city, functioning as a waterway highway. Understanding its layout can help you anticipate crowd movements and take photos that capture the city's dynamism.

3. Tidal Movements: Venice experiences regular tidal shifts. Knowledge of the tides can help you capture the city in contrasting states—sunkissed piazzas or moody flooded streets.

How This Knowledge Can Elevate Your Photography

1. Timed Shots: Knowing when the canals are most likely to be still or bustling can help you time your shots for that perfect mirror reflection or dynamic water ripples.

2. Unique Angles: The construction of Venice offers numerous unique vantage points, especially from its numerous bridges and narrow alleys.

3. Storytelling: Understanding Venice's construction can add layers to your compositions, transforming them from mere snapshots to compelling visual stories.

Upcoming Workshops and Masterclasses

If you're inspired to capture the beauty and complexity of Venice, you'll be interested in our upcoming workshops and masterclasses. Conducted in the heart of Venice, these sessions provide hands-on experience, teaching you to take stunning photos and understand the story behind each frame.

• Photography Masterclass in Venice: A 2 or 3-day intensive course that includes a deep dive into architectural photography.

• Weekend Workshop in Venice: Perfect for those who are short on time but high on enthusiasm.

Conclusion

Understanding Venice is more than knowing where to find the best gelato (although that's important, too!). It’s about grasping the essence of a city that's both an engineering marvel and a living, breathing work of art. With this understanding, you can transform your photography into a medium that doesn't just capture a scene but tells the enduring story of La Serenissima.

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The Top Luxury Hotels in Venice: A Connoisseur's Guide

Venice, a city of unparalleled romance and beauty, offers an array of accommodations to make your stay unforgettable.

As someone who has had the privilege of capturing the essence of Venice through a camera lens, I know how integral a hotel experience can be in shaping your overall impression of a place. From historical palazzos to modern retreats, Venice has a luxury hotel for every taste. Here, I present an updated list of my favourite top luxury hotels in Venice for the discerning traveller.

Aman Venice

Nestled in a 16th-century palazzo on the Grand Canal, Aman Venice is the epitome of luxury. It's not just a hotel; it's a living, breathing work of art. From sumptuous interiors to exceptional service, this hotel promises an unforgettable stay.

Belmond Hotel Cipriani

Belmond Hotel Cipriani provides a sanctuary of exclusivity and elegance only reachable by private boat. This hotel hosts one of Venice's largest swimming pools and offers unmatched views of the Venetian Lagoon and Doge's Palace.

The Gritti Palace

This former 16th-century noble house turned luxury hotel offers a unique blend of historical grandeur and contemporary amenities. With an exclusive Acqua di Parma spa and an on-site cooking school, The Gritti Palace is much more than just a hotel—it’s a unique Venetian experience.

San Clemente Palace Kempinski

Situated on its own island in the Venetian Lagoon, San Clemente Palace Kempinski provides an escape from the city's bustling tourist hubs. This 190-room luxury hotel boasts meticulously landscaped gardens, three bars, and three restaurants, offering an all-encompassing luxury experience.

Baglioni Hotel Luna

The Baglioni Hotel Luna offers an intimate and romantic setting only steps from Piazza San Marco. This hotel provides a classical Venetian experience, from its Murano glass chandeliers to its splendidly ornate rooms. A private dock allows for convenient travel to and from the hotel, adding to its exclusive charm.

Conclusion

Venice has always been more than a destination; it's an experience, an eternal moment captured in time. These luxury hotels serve as the perfect backdrop to a city renowned for its art, culture, and its unique layout of canals and narrow streets. They offer not merely a place to sleep, but an immersive experience that captures the very essence of Venetian opulence.

From sipping Bellinis on a private terrace overlooking the Grand Canal to treating yourself to a spa day after an inspiring photography session, these hotels ensure a stay as memorable as Venice.

So, whether you're here to capture the perfect shot or to indulge in Venetian luxury, make your reservations now. Your dream Venetian getaway awaits you.

How to Find an Address in Venice

Italy's Venice is a city with many sights to see, but finding these sights can be difficult if you're not familiar with the town's address system. The city was built to make sense to those using the canals, not those on foot. You're bound to get lost at least once as you wander the streets searching for hidden gems of the city.

A map may tell you the name of alleys and squares, but a typical Venetian address is simply: San Marco 1323. Venice is split into districts called sestieri, and each building in a sestiere is numbered in one long consecutive sequence. Venice's random and informal street names are not officially part of an address, although many businesses will helpfully provide one. To pin-point a location therefore, you don't just need the brief official address, you also need a street/square name and also some helpful geographical pointer, e.g. a nearby church.

Even street names are far from straightforward. Most have evolved to describe an established location and mean descriptive things like 'Alley of the carpenters' or 'Courtyard with a well'. Consequently there are often several places with the same or similar names. If you are locating a street, you will require the name of the sestiere as well (what's more, sometimes there is more than one place with the same name in one sestiere). And even armed with official address, and street name, your task still isn't simple.

The next confusion is that sometimes one place may have more than one name. Even one name may have different versions - many streets in Venice are known both by their dialect name and by the Italianised version. Either of these may appear on maps. This is why you'll see many variations of placenames such as Fondamenta Nove (even throughout this website).

Streetsigns are not always easy to spot in narrow lanes. They may offer one or more variations on the name (o means 'or'), and they are often joined on the walls by signs identifying the parish (parocchia) and any adjacent canal (rio) or bridge (ponte).

If you're spending a long time in Venice or are just very interested in the city's structure, there is a good book called Calli, Campielli e Canali which provides extremely large scale street plans, along with property numbers. It covers Venice and the lagoon islands, and enables you to locate any address in the city, as well as providing some background information in Italian and English on landmarks and principal buildings. You can buy it in most bookshops in Venice. Sadly, it's rather too bulky to carry around as you explore.

What the names mean

Here are some of the most common titles for places in Venice: Calle - a lane or alley Campo - public open space (irregularly-shaped and less formal than a 'piazza'). Campo means field, and once these were rough-surfaced in earth or grass, and used for burials. They are still the hubs of their neighbourhoods. Campiello - a small square or courtyard. Corte - courtyard. Fondamenta - canalside walkway. Piazza - public square. There is only one in Venice, Piazza San Marco. Ponte - bridge. Piscina - filled-in pool of water. Ruga - significant lane, generally one which used to contain shops. Ramo - branch off a more important thoroughfare, whose name it takes. Rio - canal. Rio terrà or terà - filled-in canal, now a street. Salizzada - name given to the earliest streets to be paved. Sottoportego - covered passage under a building, often leading only to water.

Navigating Venice - theories, routes and landmarks

You can spend many idle moments in Venice evolving navigational theories. Landmarks are all-important, both major ones and private reminders. Routes between significant points are learned this way: e.g. ' left by the greengrocers, straight over the square with a tree in it, down the lane between the red house and the yellow house, left past the Renaissance doorway'. Even if you're the sort of person who has an excellent sense of direction, you'll still find that concentrating on a chain of landmarks is more effective in Venice than working from a mental map. If you're arriving for the first time and finding your hotel, make sure they give you simple, descriptive directions. Once you've found your base, memorise the route to the nearest major landmark or street (one that's marked on your map) - then you'll be able to find your way back. While route-finding and consulting maps, do bear in mind the Venetian rules of conduct; walk on the right and don't block streets.

There are certain through-routes in Venice - chains of lanes linking places together. At busy times of the day you'll see locals filing along these tortuous routes, striding down seeming dead-end alleys and darting around sharp corners. After a while you learn those of use to you, and create your own mental database of Venetian routes.

The only destinations signposted at all consistently are St. Mark's (San Marco), the Rialto, the railway station (Ferrovia) and the bus terminus (Piazzale Roma). Even these painted signs do sometimes falter, but generally they are reliable and can help you to head in the right direction. The ones to San Marco are the most suspect, as some signposted lanes can take you a long way round (something to do with shopkeepers wanting passing trade, perhaps?).

My Favorite Maps are here

A Taste of the City: Exploring Venice’s Must-Try Restaurants

Venice is a city renowned for its stunning architecture, rich history, and vibrant culture. But perhaps one of the city's most beloved features is its incredible food scene. From fresh seafood to traditional Venetian dishes, there's no shortage of delicious cuisine to be found in Venice. In this post, we'll be sharing some of the best restaurants in Venice, including popular favorites and hidden gems. Whether you're a seafood lover or looking for vegetarian-friendly options, there's something for everyone on this list. So, let's dive in and explore the culinary delights of Venice!

Al Giardinetto da Severino: This charming restaurant is situated in the heart of Venice and offers an extensive menu of delicious seafood dishes. The atmosphere is cozy and intimate, with a lovely outdoor garden for al fresco dining. The restaurant is known for its fresh ingredients and traditional Venetian cuisine.

Antiche Carampane: This is a must-visit restaurant for seafood lovers. The menu is focused on fresh seafood caught locally and prepared in the traditional Venetian style. The warm, welcoming atmosphere, attentive service, and a lovely canal-side setting.

Osteria da Fiore: This Michelin-starred restaurant is known for its exceptional food and elegant ambience. The menu features a creative take on traditional Venetian cuisine, focusing on fresh seafood and locally sourced ingredients. The wine list is also impressive, with an extensive selection of Italian and international wines.

Trattoria da Romano: This restaurant is situated on the island of Burano, just a short boat ride from Venice. It's worth the trip for the picturesque setting alone, but the food is equally impressive. The menu features classic Venetian dishes, including seafood risotto and grilled squid, prepared with fresh, local ingredients.\

Ristorante Da Ivo: This restaurant is located in the charming neighbourhood of San Marco and offers a cosy, intimate atmosphere. The menu features traditional Venetian cuisine with an emphasis on seafood dishes. The wine list is also excellent, with a selection of Italian and international wines.

Osteria Bancogiro: This restaurant is located on the Grand Canal and offers stunning views of the water. The menu features a mix of traditional Venetian dishes and modern Italian cuisine, focusing on fresh, seasonal ingredients. The wine list is also impressive, with a selection of Italian and international wines.

Trattoria alla Madonna: This cosy, family-run restaurant has been a favourite among locals and tourists for years. The menu features classic Venetian dishes, such as risotto and seafood pasta, as well as a variety of meat dishes. The restaurant also has an extensive wine list, focusing on Italian wines.

Anice Stellato: This charming restaurant is located in the Cannaregio neighbourhood and is known for its creative take on Venetian cuisine. The menu features a variety of seafood dishes, as well as vegetarian and meat options. The warm and welcoming atmosphere, with a cozy dining room and a lovely outdoor terrace.

Osteria La Zucca: This vegetarian-friendly restaurant is located in the Santa Croce neighbourhood and offers a refreshing break from the seafood-heavy menus of many Venetian restaurants. The menu features a variety of vegetarian and vegan dishes and a selection of seafood and meat options. The atmosphere is cosy and inviting, with rustic decor and friendly service.

Alle Testiere: This small, intimate restaurant in the Castello neighbourhood is known for its exceptional seafood dishes. The menu changes daily, depending on what's fresh and in season, but it always features a variety of creative and delicious seafood dishes. The atmosphere is cosy and romantic, with just a few tables and attentive service.

Venice is a city with many exceptional restaurants, and Al Giardinetto da Severino is one of the best. I hope this list also helps you discover other hidden gems in the city!

The Scoop on Venice's Finest Gelato: Top 5 Must-Try Ice Cream Spots

The Scoop on Venice's Finest Gelato: Top 5 Must-Try Ice Cream Spots

Venice, Italy, known for its winding canals, historic architecture, and delicious Italian cuisine, is also home to some of the best gelato in the world. I've often enjoyed tasting my way through Venice's ice cream scene, and I'm excited to share my top 5 picks for the best Venice ice cream spots. Prepare to embark on a delightful journey through the City of Canals, one scoop at a time.

Suso Gelatoteca

Nestled in the heart of Venice, Suso Gelatoteca offers an array of innovative and delectable gelato creations. Their artisanal approach and a focus on premium ingredients result in a rich, creamy texture that is simply irresistible. Be sure to try their signature flavors, such as the Oreo Espresso, which combines the best of coffee and cookies, or the Opera, a delightful combination of pistachio, hazelnut, and almonds.

La Boutique del Gelato

Located near the Rialto Bridge, La Boutique del Gelato is a small, charming ice cream parlor that is well worth a visit. With a wide variety of flavours, ranging from classic Italian favorites like Bacio (chocolate and hazelnut) to more exotic options like Mango and Coconut, there's something to satisfy every palate. The Gianduiotto, a velvety blend of chocolate and hazelnut, is a crowd favourite and a must-try.

Alaska Gelateria

Alaska Gelateria, run by the passionate Carlo Pistacchi, offers a unique and unforgettable gelato experience. Using only the freshest ingredients, Carlo creates flavors that are both inventive and steeped in tradition. Be prepared to be amazed by the likes of Zabaione al Marsala, a rich custard infused with Marsala wine, or the refreshing Basil and Lemon sorbet. The cozy atmosphere and warm service make this a must-visit spot in Venice.

Gelateria Ca' D'Oro

Tucked away in the Cannaregio district, Gelateria Ca' D'Oro is a true hidden gem. This family-run establishment offers a delightful selection of traditional and seasonal gelato flavors, all made in-house daily. The quality of ingredients and dedication to their craft is evident in every scoop. Don't miss the Fior di Latte, a simple yet incredibly creamy and satisfying flavor that is the epitome of Italian gelato perfection.

Gelateria Nico

Located along the picturesque Zattere waterfront, Gelateria Nico is an institution in Venice known for its delightful gelato and stunning views of the Giudecca Canal. This iconic spot offers a wide range of flavors made with the freshest ingredients, and their portions are generous. One of their most famous creations is the Gianduiotto, a heavenly blend of chocolate and hazelnut gelato, served with a dollop of whipped cream. Enjoy your gelato while taking in the beautiful surroundings at this classic Venetian establishment.

With such an incredible array of ice cream spots, Venice is undoubtedly a gelato lover's paradise. As you explore the city's breathtaking sights, be sure to make time to indulge in these top 5 must-try ice cream spots. Your taste buds will thank you!

A Cicchetti Crawl Through Venice: The Ultimate Guide to the City's Best Bacari

Venice, a city of meandering canals and romantic gondolas, is a culinary wonderland to explore. As you wander through its winding streets, you'll discover the hidden gems of Venetian cuisine, the bacari. These traditional wine bars offer the perfect opportunity to savour the mouth-watering cicchetti, the Venetian answer to Spanish tapas. So, join us as we take you on a cicchetti crawl through the enchanting city of Venice and introduce you to the best bacari worth visiting.

Cantina Do Mori (San Polo, 429)

Established in 1462, Cantina Do Mori is the oldest bacaro in Venice. Steeped in history, this cozy wine bar is famed for its delectable cicchetti, including classics like sarde in saor and baccalà mantecato. Pair your snacks with a glass of ombra, a local wine, and soak in the authentic Venetian atmosphere.

All'Arco (San Polo, 436)

Just a stone's throw from the Rialto Market, All'Arco is a bustling bacaro popular among both locals and tourists. Known for its exquisite selection of cicchetti, All'Arco serves up a variety of creative dishes, from crostini with Baccala Mantecato (whipped salt cod) to bite-sized sandwiches filled with marinated artichokes and prosciutto. Don't forget to sample their house-made wines, served straight from the barrel.

Osteria Al Squero (Dorsoduro, 943-944)

Overlooking the picturesque Squero di San Trovaso, one of Venice's last remaining gondola workshops, Osteria Al Squero offers a scenic spot to enjoy your cicchetti. Choose from an array of delectable bites, such as mozzarella in carrozza, polpette, and their signature cicchetto, the Venetian tramezzino. Pair these delights with a refreshing spritz or a glass of Prosecco.

Vino Vero (Cannaregio, 2497)

Located along the picturesque Fondamenta Misericordia, Vino Vero is a contemporary bacaro that prides itself on offering an extensive selection of natural wines. Their cicchetti menu is equally impressive, featuring traditional options like baccalà mantecato and more adventurous choices, such as blue cheese and pear crostini. With its relaxed ambiance and canal-side seating, Vino Vero is the perfect spot for a leisurely evening with friends.

Al Timon (Cannaregio, 2754)

A popular hangout spot for locals, Al Timon is a lively bacaro with an inviting atmosphere. This bustling wine bar is famous for its cicchetti, particularly the succulent beef skewers and marinated seafood. Enjoy your cicchetti on board their bragozzo, a traditional wooden boat moored along the canal, while sipping on a glass of wine from their extensive list.

La Ciurma (San Polo, 406)

La Ciurma is a charming little bacaro offering a warm and welcoming atmosphere in the heart of the San Polo district. This family-run spot is the perfect place to escape the hustle and bustle of Venice while savouring an array of delicious cicchetti. La Ciurma's highlights include the smoked tuna with orange zest and their selection of crostini topped with various kinds of cheese, cured meats, and fresh vegetables. Enjoy these tasty bites with a glass of local wine, handpicked by knowledgeable staff.

Cantina Aziende Agricole (Cannaregio, 429)

Tucked away in the vibrant Cannaregio district, Cantina Aziende Agricole is a gem for those seeking a more intimate and authentic bacaro experience. This tiny wine bar is renowned for its carefully curated selection of organic wines and its emphasis on farm-to-table ingredients. Among the must-try cicchetti are the gorgonzola and walnut crostini, the marinated anchovies, and the daily specials, which showcase the freshest seasonal produce. Immerse yourself in the warm and convivial atmosphere of Cantina Aziende Agricole, and enjoy a truly memorable Venetian culinary experience.

Conclusion:

Each bacaro on this list offers a unique and unforgettable experience, inviting you to immerse yourself in the rich flavours and vibrant culture of Venice. So, put on your walking shoes, and let your taste buds lead the way on this incredible culinary adventure.

To know more about Cichetti and Bacari

Andar Per Bacari by Monica Cesarato, the Ultimate guide to eating Cicchetti in Venice! Recipes, itineraries and also the history of the most delicious food in the city!

Check Here. Coming Soon in English!

Venice During Easter and Spring

Venice is one of the most beautiful and romantic cities in the world, and Easter time is a perfect time to visit it. This Italian city is known for its stunning architecture, canals, and gondolas, making it an ideal destination for couples, families, and solo travelers. Here are a few reasons why visiting Venice during Easter time is an excellent idea.

Firstly, Easter is an important holiday in Venice, and the city comes alive with celebrations, parades, and special events. You can witness the solemn processions that take place throughout the city, including the religious processions on Good Friday, which are particularly impressive. In addition, there are many concerts, exhibitions, and performances that take place during the Easter period, offering a chance to experience the vibrant cultural scene of Venice.

Another reason to visit Venice during Easter is the beautiful spring weather. The city has a mild climate in March and April, and the temperatures are usually pleasant for exploring the city on foot or by boat. The springtime also brings beautiful flowers and blossoms, adding to the charm and beauty of the city.

During Easter, Venice is less crowded compared to the peak summer season, making it a perfect time to enjoy the city's attractions and cultural treasures at a more leisurely pace. You can take a gondola ride through the canals, explore the city's museums, art galleries, and historical landmarks, or simply wander through the narrow streets and soak up the atmosphere.

Moreover, Easter is a time for indulgence and food in Italy, and Venice is no exception. The traditional Easter feast includes roasted lamb, sweet Easter bread, and Colomba Pasquale, a dove-shaped cake. You can also sample other delicious Venetian specialities such as risotto with seafood, polenta, and the famous Venetian cicchetti (small plates of food served with drinks).

Finally, Venice is a city that celebrates its traditions and history, and Easter is no exception. During this time, you can witness the city's traditions and culture firsthand, such as the ancient custom of Venetian gondoliers wearing traditional clothing and colorful sashes during the Easter period.

In conclusion, visiting Venice during Easter time is a fantastic idea, as it offers an opportunity to experience the city's vibrant culture, beautiful weather, delicious food, and traditional celebrations. Whether you are seeking a romantic getaway, a family holiday, or a solo adventure, Venice during Easter is an unforgettable experience that will stay with you forever.

My Favourites Hotels in Venice

You can certainly spend a lot of money on a hotel in Venice. A night at the Gritti Palace in high summer will set you back at least £750. But for the same amount, you could enjoy an entire week in most of the hotels listed here. You won’t get the same status, or quite the same service, or the exact superb location, but you will still find a decently sized room, lots of character and a warm welcome.

Cà del Nobile San Marco 987, ria terà delle Colonne (528 3473; cadelnobile.com)

This hotel is just off one of the thronging routes between St Mark’s and the Rialto. Interestingly, it’s in one of the lowest points of the city: if you visit during acqua alta, you’ll be able to watch water bubbling up through the cobblestones below. Lots of stairs and no lift mean that it’s not for the unfit. Price from £79

Domus Orsoni Cannaregio 1045, Sottoportego dei Vedei (275 9538; domusorsoni.it)

In 1291, Venice’s glassworkers were banished to the island of Murano. Today, only one glass foundry remains in the city: Orsoni. Located in the Jewish Ghetto, and set in a delightful palazzo overlooking a private garden and the foundry, the Domus Orsoni channels the Orsoni family’s heritage in five rooms, resplendent with glass-mosaic-tiled walls and mosaic art works. Price from £71

Locanda Orseolo (Corte Zorzi; 041 523 5586; www.locandaorseolo.com; £160).

Step inside the hotel and you might be in a compartment on the Orient Express: elegant, enveloping, and richly coloured and furnished. But it’s the warmth of the young team at this equally young 15-room hotel that makes it really special – Matteo, Barbara and their brothers, sisters and friends. In the morning, Matteo dons an apron and cooks pancakes and omelettes to order, Barbara serves and everyone chats. The comfortable bedrooms are being transformed to echo the ground floor, complete with hand-painted murals and canopied beds. Secure one and you’ll have a real bargain.

La Villeggiatura San Polo, 1569, Calle dei Botteri (524 4673; lavilleggiatura.it)

A short hop from the Rialto markets, in an area buzzing with restaurants and residential activity, La Villeggiatura is an elegantly tasteful home-from-home. Tea and coffee-making equipment in the spacious bedrooms, and gently attentive service, add to the pleasure of a stay here. Price from £71

Hotel Centauro S Marco Calle della Vida Cpo Manin (www.hotelcentauro.com/)

Located in the historic centre of Venice just a stone’s throw from St Mark’s Square (five minutes walking distance), the Centauro Hotel offers elegant, welcoming accommodation from which you can enjoy the city’s art and culture. Housed within an ancient palace from the 1500’s, the Centauro Hotel has Venetian style furnishings from the 18th century and 30 comfortable guestrooms. Rooms have air conditioning and satellite television, some have canal views and those on the top floor have a private terrace from which you can enjoy panoramic views over the rooftops of Venice.

Al Ponte Mocenigo This is another charming 16th-century palazzo, so tucked away that you could walk right past and never know it was there. You will find one entrance down a very narrow alley just up from the San Stae vaporetto stop; the other is on the opposite side, over a small bridge. Officially it is a two-star hotel, but frankly it rivals many establishments with double that number of stars. The very smart, high-ceilinged rooms are in Venetian styles and colours. The best are numbers five and six, on the first floor overlooking a tiny canal to one side (they are classed as “superior” doubles and cost £128 in mid-season).

Booking.com

Christmas in Venice

While preparation are taking place in Venice and the Lagoon for Christmas here are few tips:A wonderful way to spend Christmas Eve is to attend midnight mass at St. Mark's Basilica. But remember, midnight mass starts at 10:30 p.m. and you should get there early to get a seat (no tickets are needed). Try to enter through the north entrance and not the west entrance often used by tourists.

Even though December 26th is a national holiday (St. Stephen's Day), most of Venice's museums and sites will be open.

Several Venice restaurants are closed on Christmas Eve and Christmas Day and even on the 23rd and 26th. Most hotel restaurants and Harry's Bar are open. Be sure to do your homework and make reservations ahead of time for Christmas meals. We hear Caffe Quadri and the restaurant - Piazza San Marco's famous cafe - is open on Christmas Day. Good place for Christmas breakfast and coffee!

Remember that the vaparetto schedule changes on major holidays. Check the signs posted on the platforms for schedule information.

Each year on December 26, the Frari Church in San Polo (in the Campo dei Frari) offers a free concert at 4:00 p.m. The church is filled with magnificent art, including Titian's Assumption of the Virgin, Canova's Tomb and a carved monk's chair from 1468.

For an incredible seafood dinner and a warm celebration at midnight, go to Trattoria Antiche Carampane on New Year's Eve. (San Polo 1911; (39) 041 524-0165) The price for dinner runs about £70 per person. No matter where you go that night, you must make reservations.

Another restaurant recommendation: Antica Trattoria Poste Vecie (Rialto Pescheria Venezia; (39-041-721-1822) is open on Christmas Day and New Year's Day. This restaurant also has excellent fish and a larger menu as well. The soups and Venetian-style calf's liver are terrific. Fireplaces keep the restaurant warm on cold nights.

If you're in Venice on January 6, don't miss the Befana races. Men clad in long skirts, wigs and babushkas climb into boats for races on the Grand Canal. The best views are from the Rialto Bridge.

Venice's Cats...where are they gone??

For a Gallery of Venetian Stray Cats click here

The Lion of St. Mark is Venice's mascot, at least among sculptors and decorators but in real life, the closest lion is probably at the Parco Natura Viva just outside Verona ;-)

With no living lions to reign over Venice, the local feline population has adopted a surrogate leonine role. Back in the 1980s, when I spent my year in Venice as part of the national army service, cats were seen everywhere in the city: sunning themselves on park benches, perched on bridges, wandering the streets, and dining on leftovers at the Rialto fish market.

Now the cat population has been limited mainly by laws and modern way of life, there are still few colonies the main ones are at Ospedale Civile (yes inside!) , at San Lorenzo near the Church, at Bacini, at Giudecca near Ponte Lungo at the Arsenale, there are quite few at the Lido and one at Torcello!

There is an Anglo Italian organization Dingo part of AISPA that works to feed, protect and maintain colonies in a healthy and modern way, they also run the "gattile" (Cattery)  at Malamocco. Despite several misconceptions and a bit of Italian racism there are no proofs (!!!) that Dingo or the Cinese people are responsible for the disappearance of cats from Venice!

In a brilliant book titled A Venetian Bestiary, Jan Morris wrote:"The cat has always been an essential scavenger in a city that depends on the tides for its hygiene, and has periodically been decimated by rat-borne plagues. It was Shylock the Venetian who declared the cat to be 'both necessary and harmless,' and when from time to time the municipality has tried to reduce the teeming feline population, the citizenry has always been up in arms in protest. Your Venetian cats are not like others. Sometimes of course they live in the bosoms of families, and are fed on canned horsemeat, and prettied up with bows: but far more often they survive half-wild, in feral gangs or covens of cats, and not infrequently some cherished household pet, observing the lives of such lucky ruffians from the kitchen window, will abandon the comforts of basket and fireside rug, and take to the streets himself."

How does Venice work?

Venice, Italy, “stretching across 117 small islands in the marshy Venetian Lagoon along the Adriatic Sea in northeast Italy,” may be one of the most amazing places in the world to live. Fans of Donna Leon’s fictional detective Guido Brunetti come to know it as a land of good food, water taxis and alleys that dead-end at the water.

Venice Backstage. How does Venice work? from Insula spa on Vimeo.

Having said that Venice is not just a stage set. It is also a city with a resident population, which has productive activities, transportation and services. But how does the “Venice system” work? How do the tides in the lagoon behave? How are the canals formed? And the embankments? What’s under the buildings?

Venice Vaporetto Map

I have been asked few times the best place to find a Waterbus - Vaporetto map, I have blogged before here about the vaporetti, prices and new numbers but here is a map, if you click you will get an PDF Hi Res map and info taken from ACTV! Or you can buy a printable Tourist Version from our friend Nan of Living Venice here

SEASONAL LINES Seasonal lines are largely dedicated to tourists and are activated on particular occasions, such as during the Venice Carnival or in the spring and summer to facilitate the mobility of large numbers of visitors. These seasonal lines provide rapid, direct backup to the city centre lines down the Canal Grande and Giudecca Canal. Line 5 on the other hand directly links the island of Murano with Piazza San Marco and the city centre of Venice, taking an external route.

CITY CENTER LINES These are the lines which crisscross the "heart" of the city, exploiting the two largest inner canals, the Canal Grande, probably the world's most famous canal, and ....the Giudecca Canal, large and deep enough to allow even the arrival of cruise ships. The city centre lines connect a number of access points such as Tronchetto, Piazzale Roma and the railway station with the Venice of shops, monuments and museums, passing through the San Marco Basin as far as Lido di Venezia, famous for the beauty of its beaches and its nature reserves.

CIRCULAR LINES These lines with a roughly circular route connect the perimeter of the city touching points of great cultural and commercial interest throughout the area. With the circular lines, you can easily reach the islands of Lido and Murano (famous for its glass products), passing through or starting from the railway station, Piazzale Roma and near Piazza San Marco. With the circular, you can also get off and reach Venice City Hospital after a short walk along a route free from architectural barriers.

LAGOON LINES These lines connect Venice with the most important islands in the lagoon, both in the north lagoon (Mazzorbo, Burano, Torcello, Sant’Erasmo) and the south lagoon. The lagoon lines also link transport nodes on the mainland and in Venice province with the city centre. You can in fact reach Venice directly from Punta Sabbioni, Treporti and Chioggia. The lagoon lines also include the ferry-boat line no. 17 connecting Lido di Venezia and the Tronchetto terminal and the bus line no. 11 linking Lido di Venezia with the island of Pellestrina. The San Lazzaro - Lido Casinò section of line no. 20 is seasonal, to verify availability contact the Hellovenezia Call Center (+39)-041-2424.

TERMINAL LINES The terminal lines are a group of rapid lines with few stops which rapidly connect Venice with the mainland terminals managed by companies in the ACTV group. They consist largely of the Alilaguna group of lines and the line 16.