Venice at Christmas: What's Open and Closed Over the Holidays

Planning a trip to Venice during the Christmas season is a magical experience, but knowing what’s open and closed can help you make the most of your visit. While the city retains its charm with twinkling lights, quiet canals, and festive spirit, some services and attractions have limited hours, especially on Christmas Eve and Christmas Day.

1. Public Transportation

Public transport services like vaporettos generally continue to operate throughout the holidays, but expect reduced schedules, particularly on Christmas Eve (December 24th) and Christmas Day (December 25th). Be sure to check timetables in advance if you’re planning on navigating Venice’s waterways on these days. Taxis and water taxis are typically available, but booking in advance is recommended.

2. Tourist Attractions

Many of Venice’s iconic attractions, including Doge’s Palace and the Peggy Guggenheim Collection, often remain open with limited hours during the Christmas period, though they may be closed on Christmas Day or have special hours on the 24th and 26th. Churches, including St. Mark’s Basilica, are open for religious services, and attending a Christmas Eve Midnight Mass can be a beautiful experience. However, it’s best to check ahead for any specific closures, especially if you're interested in visiting lesser-known museums or galleries.

3. Restaurants and Cafés

Finding a good meal in Venice during the holidays is usually no problem, but it’s important to know that many restaurants close on Christmas Day and sometimes Christmas Eve. That said, several will offer special Christmas menus (cenone di Natale), featuring traditional Venetian dishes like baccalà mantecato or bigoli in salsa. If you plan on dining out, it’s a good idea to book ahead, as places can fill up quickly.

Some Venetian cafés and bars stay open, especially in popular tourist areas, so you can always enjoy a coffee or hot chocolate by the canal, but options may be more limited in the quieter parts of the city.

4. Shopping

Venice’s famous Christmas markets, like the one at Campo Santo Stefano, typically run until Christmas Eve, so if you’re looking for local crafts, glass ornaments, or festive gifts, it’s best to visit early. Many shops, particularly those catering to tourists, remain open on Christmas Eve but may close for a few days around Christmas and New Year’s. Major chain stores are more likely to stay open than smaller, independent boutiques.

5. Special Holiday Events

Cultural venues like La Fenice usually host special holiday performances, including concerts and operas, which can make for a wonderful Christmas Eve or New Year’s Eve treat. Keep an eye on event schedules for exact dates and times, as these may vary. Outdoor Christmas events, like ice skating rinks, can also provide some festive fun, especially in areas like Campo San Polo.

6. Essential Services

Pharmacies follow holiday hours, with a few remaining open on a rotation basis for emergencies. Supermarkets and grocery stores may close early on Christmas Eve and remain closed on Christmas Day, so it’s a good idea to stock up on essentials beforehand.

Christmas Markets You Can Visit from Venice: Day Trips and Short Stays

The holiday season is a magical time in Europe, with Christmas markets springing up across cities and towns. If you're based in Venice and looking to explore some of these festive markets, you're in luck!

There are several options that you can easily visit either as a day trip or a short stay. While Venice itself has a few holiday events, it's worth noting that the city doesn’t have a traditional Christmas market like those found in other European cities.

However, many fantastic options are just a short journey away. Let’s dive into the best markets you can explore from Venice, divided into day trips and places worth staying overnight.

Day Trips from Venice

1. Verona

   • Distance: ~1.5 hours by train

   • Why Visit: Verona’s Christmas market, held in the historic Piazza dei Signori, is a perfect blend of Italian charm and German tradition. Known as the "Nuremberg Christmas Market," it features over 60 wooden huts offering handmade decorations, artisanal gifts, and delicious treats like pretzels and bratwurst. The beautiful setting, complete with the backdrop of Verona’s ancient architecture, makes it an ideal day trip.

2. Treviso

   • Distance: ~40 minutes by train

   • Why Visit: Treviso, often overshadowed by its famous neighbor, Venice, has its own quaint Christmas market that’s well worth a visit. The market stretches across the city center, with stalls offering local delicacies, wines, and holiday crafts. Treviso’s compact size means you can easily explore the market and the city’s picturesque canals and squares in one day.

3. Bassano del Grappa

   • Distance: ~1.5 hours by train

   • Why Visit: Bassano del Grappa offers a cozy Christmas market in its historic center, with stunning views of the nearby mountains. This market is known for its festive atmosphere, featuring local artisans, food stalls, and a charming ice-skating rink. Don’t miss the chance to taste the local specialty, grappa, while enjoying the holiday cheer.

4. Padua

   • Distance: ~30 minutes by train

   • Why Visit: Padua’s Christmas market is one of the most vibrant in the region. Held in the main squares like Piazza delle Erbe and Piazza della Frutta, it features a mix of traditional and modern stalls. The city is also home to beautiful holiday lights and decorations, making it a festive day trip option. Plus, Padua’s rich history and beautiful architecture add to the experience.

Overnight Stays: Christmas Markets Worth a Longer Visit

1. Bressanone (Brixen)

   • Distance: ~3.5 hours by train

   • Why Stay: Bressanone’s Christmas market is set against the stunning backdrop of the Dolomites, in one of the oldest towns in South Tyrol. The market, located in the Cathedral Square, offers a cozy and intimate atmosphere with traditional South Tyrolean crafts, Christmas decorations, and local delicacies. The town’s historic charm, combined with the festive lights and snow-covered surroundings, makes it a perfect place for an overnight stay.

2. Bolzano

   • Distance: ~3 hours by train

   • Why Stay: Bolzano hosts one of Italy’s most famous Christmas markets, attracting visitors from all over Europe. The Piazza Walther is transformed into a winter wonderland with wooden stalls offering a variety of holiday goods, from handmade crafts to delicious Tyrolean specialties like apple strudel and mulled wine. The surrounding mountains and Alpine atmosphere make it an ideal destination to soak in the holiday spirit over a couple of days.

3. Ljubljana

   • Distance: ~2.5 hours by car

   • Why Stay: Ljubljana’s Christmas market is one of the most charming in Europe, spread along the banks of the Ljubljanica River. The market features beautifully decorated stalls, live music, and a warm, welcoming atmosphere. The city’s stunning architecture, combined with the festive lights and decorations, make it a magical place to stay for a night or two. Additionally, Ljubljana’s vibrant food scene offers plenty of opportunities to enjoy local Slovenian cuisine during your visit.

4. Innsbruck

   • Distance: ~4.5 hours by train

   • Why Stay: Innsbruck, nestled in the Austrian Alps, offers several Christmas markets, each with its own unique charm. The Old Town Christmas Market, set against the backdrop of the Golden Roof, is particularly enchanting. Innsbruck’s markets are known for their high-quality crafts, traditional Tyrolean food, and breathtaking mountain scenery. Given the travel time, staying overnight allows you to fully immerse yourself in the festive atmosphere and explore the city’s other attractions.

5. Zagreb

   • Distance: ~5.5 hours by train

   • Why Stay: Zagreb’s Christmas market has been voted one of the best in Europe, and it’s easy to see why. The market is spread across multiple locations in the city, each offering its own unique experience, from ice skating in King Tomislav Square to enjoying live music and performances in Zrinjevac Park. Zagreb’s market is a blend of traditional and modern, with a wide range of food, drinks, and crafts available. The vibrant atmosphere and cultural richness of the city make it worth staying for at least a night.

Conclusion

Whether you're looking for a quick festive escape or a longer holiday adventure, the Christmas markets near Venice offer something for everyone. From the romantic ambiance of Verona to the Alpine charm of Bolzano, these markets provide the perfect way to celebrate the season. And while Venice itself may not have a traditional Christmas market, its location makes it an ideal base for exploring some of the best in the region.

Happy holiday travels!

Christmas in Venice

While preparation are taking place in Venice and the Lagoon for Christmas here are few tips:A wonderful way to spend Christmas Eve is to attend midnight mass at St. Mark's Basilica. But remember, midnight mass starts at 10:30 p.m. and you should get there early to get a seat (no tickets are needed). Try to enter through the north entrance and not the west entrance often used by tourists.

Even though December 26th is a national holiday (St. Stephen's Day), most of Venice's museums and sites will be open.

Several Venice restaurants are closed on Christmas Eve and Christmas Day and even on the 23rd and 26th. Most hotel restaurants and Harry's Bar are open. Be sure to do your homework and make reservations ahead of time for Christmas meals. We hear Caffe Quadri and the restaurant - Piazza San Marco's famous cafe - is open on Christmas Day. Good place for Christmas breakfast and coffee!

Remember that the vaparetto schedule changes on major holidays. Check the signs posted on the platforms for schedule information.

Each year on December 26, the Frari Church in San Polo (in the Campo dei Frari) offers a free concert at 4:00 p.m. The church is filled with magnificent art, including Titian's Assumption of the Virgin, Canova's Tomb and a carved monk's chair from 1468.

For an incredible seafood dinner and a warm celebration at midnight, go to Trattoria Antiche Carampane on New Year's Eve. (San Polo 1911; (39) 041 524-0165) The price for dinner runs about £70 per person. No matter where you go that night, you must make reservations.

Another restaurant recommendation: Antica Trattoria Poste Vecie (Rialto Pescheria Venezia; (39-041-721-1822) is open on Christmas Day and New Year's Day. This restaurant also has excellent fish and a larger menu as well. The soups and Venetian-style calf's liver are terrific. Fireplaces keep the restaurant warm on cold nights.

If you're in Venice on January 6, don't miss the Befana races. Men clad in long skirts, wigs and babushkas climb into boats for races on the Grand Canal. The best views are from the Rialto Bridge.

Regata Befana 2012

VENICE, ITALY - JANUARY 06: Two of the participants sail under Rialto Bridge on the Grand Canal ahead of the 34th Befana Regatta on January 6, 2012 in Venice, Italy. In Italian folklore, Befana is an old woman who delivers gifts to children throughout Italy on the feast of the Epiphany on January 6 in a similar way to Saint Nicholas or Santa Claus.

Images from Venice event  and around the world about Epiphany

• Guardian
• MSNC
• MSNBC Today
• FM News Chicago
• Bulgarian News
• Huffington Post

Befana or Ephiphany in Venice

The Feast of the Epiphany, celebrated January 6 with a national holiday in Italy, and the tradition of La Befana are a big part of Italian Christmas celebrations. Epiphany commemorates the 12th day of Christmas when the three Wise Men arrived at the manger bearing gifts for Baby Jesus. The traditional Christmas holiday season in Italy lasts through Epiphany. On Venice’s Grand Canal, at 11 c'clock men dressed as old witches – ‘befane’ in Italian – race towards the Rialto Bridge, standing up as they row Venetian style. This event takes place every year in January in celebration of Epiphany.

Best places to watch the race: Rialto but you must get there quite early, Riva del Vin or just around Rialto Mercato.

Venice Frittelle (Frittole)

Ok Ok I know Christmas and New Year are still here, but we have to think ahead and ahead in sweets terms means: Frittelle…Frittole..Fritoe, or fritters, are the most famous dolci or sweets of  Venice during the Carnival Season.

Frittelle begin showing up in pastry shops, Cafes and  bakeries, mid January and  during the weeks leading up to il Carnevale di Venezia. When Carnival is over, frittelle disappear from the store windows almost as quickly as tourists in masks.

Frittelle come in a variety of styles, both filled and unfilled, the available choices usually include:

Frittelle veneziane. No filling, but with raisins and pine nuts mixed into the fairly heavy dough. After frying, the frittelle are rolled in granulated sugar.

Frittelle con crema chantilly. Filled with a light vanilla-flavored pastry cream and rolled in granulated sugar.

Frittelle con cioccolata. Filled with a mild chocolate-flavoured pastry cream and rolled in granulated sugar.

Frittelle con zabaione. Filled with a Marsala-flavored pastry cream and rolled in granulated sugar.

The most famous and renowned places where to get the Frittelle (and my votes) are:

• Pasticceria Tonolo: Contrada San pantalon in Dorsoduro 10/10
• Pasticceria Didovitch: Campo Santa Marina     9/10
• Pasticceria Bonifacio Calle degli Albanesi San Marco 4/10 (uncooked)
• Panifico Fornareto Calle del Forner Cannaregio  8/10
• Coffe Pasticceria Pitteri Strada Nuova Cannaregio  9/10 but poor Cappuccino!
• Dal Mas  Cannaregio Rio Terà Lista de Spagna, 150  8/10
• Rosa Salva  (5/10)

The worst Frittelle (IMHO)

• Majer (San Giacomo dell’Orio) : just one word Terrible!!!

Last year prices were around 1.00 and 1.30 Euro each  but I have seen also a few outrageous 1.50

Santo Stefano Celebration in Venice

Gondoliers dressed in 16th century costumes ferry people performing a Nativity scene from St Mark's to the Island of San Giorgio.

The event, in its first year, replicates the ancient tradition when the Doge of Venice used to travel to the Island of San Giorgio on Boxing Day to celebrate the relics of Santo Stefano.

Christmas Holidays

NOALE, ITALY - DECEMBER 18: Participants dressed as Father Christmas take part in the Noale Sant Run on December 18, 2011 in Noale, Italy. Close to two thousand people participated in the third annual Noale Santa Run, one of the largest non competitive Santa Run in Italy.

Can a Muslim say happy Christmas to his friends? As a Muslim I get asked this question all the time during this period . Often I get even told off by some good doer Mullah acting for the Islamic Police!  As I have done for so many years now, once again, I extend these wishes from around the globe, to you all Merry Christmas to my Christian friends and Happy Hanukkah to my Jewish friends

Afrikaans Geseënde Kersfees en 'n gelukkige nuwe jaar Albanian Gëzuar Krishtlindjet e Vitin e Ri Arabic ???? ??????? ??????? ???????? ???? ????? ??????? Azeri Tezze iliniz yahsi olsun Basque Zorionak eta urte berri on Breton Nedeleg laouen ha bloavezh mat Bulgarian ??????? ??????! ???????? ???? ?????? Byelorussian ? ????? ????? i ???????i Catalan Bon Nadal i feliç any nou Chinese (Cantonese) ???????? Chinese (Mandarin) ???????? [????????] Comanche Tsaa Nu?u?sukatu?? Waa Himaru? Cornish Nadelik lowen ha blydhen nowydh da Croatian Sretan Božic i uspješna Nova godina Czech Veselé vánoce a š?astný nový rok Danish Glædelig jul og godt nytår Dutch Prettige Kerstdagen en een gelukkig nieuw jaar Esperanto Bonan Kristnaskon kaj feli?an novan jaron Estonian Häid Jõule ja õnnelikku uut aastat Faroese Gledhilig Jol og eydnurikt nyggjar Finnish Hyvää joulua ja onnellista uutta vuotta Flemish Zalig kerstfeest en gelukkig Nieuwjaar Frisian Noflike Krystdagen en in protte Lok en Seine yn it Nije Jier French Joyeux Noël et bonne année Gaelic (Irish) Nollaig Shona agus Athbhliain faoi mhaise duit Gaelic (Manx) Nollick ghennal as blein vie noa Gaelic (Scottish) Nollaig chridheil agus bliadhna mhath ùr Galician Bo Nadal e próspero aninovo German Frohe Weihnachten und ein frohes neues Jahr Greek ???? ???????????? ??? ??????????? ?? ??? ???? Greenlandic Juullimi ukiortaasamilu pilluaritsi Hausa Barka da Kirsimatikuma barka da sabuwar shekara Hebrew ?? ???? ??? ???? ???? Hungarian Kellemes karácsonyt és boldog új évet Icelandic Gleðileg jól og farsælt komandi ár Ilocano - Naimbag a Pascua ken Naragsac nga Baro nga Tawen! Indonesian Selamat hari Natal Italian Buon Natale e felice anno nuovo Japanese ?????????????????? Jèrriais Bouan Noué et Bouanne Année Judeo-Spanish / Ladino Noel alegre i felis anyo muevo Kazakh ??????????? ????? ???? ???? ??????? ????? ?????? Kirghiz ??????????? ???????? ???? ??????? ????? ?????? Korean ?? ????? ?? ? ?? ???? Kurdish (Kurmanji) Kirîsmes u ser sala we pîroz be Kurdish (Sorani) Kirîsmes u salî nwêtan lê pîroz bê Latin Natale hilare et annum faustum Latvian priec?gus Ziemassv?tkus un laim?gu Jauno gadu Low Saxon - Heughliche Winachten un 'n moi Nijaar Maltese Il-Milied u s-sena t-tabja Maori Meri Kirihimete Ka puta a Matariki, ka rere a Whanui, ko te tohu o te tau Monogasque - Festusu Natale e Bona ana noeva Manx Nollick ghennal as blein vie noa Norwegian God jul og godt nyttår (Bokmål) God jol og godt nyttår (Nynorsk) Oriya Sukhamaya christmass ebang khusibhara naba barsa Persian/Farsi ????? ???????? ?? ????? Polish Weso?ych ?wi?t i szcz??liwego Nowego Roku Portuguese Feliz Natal e próspero ano novo Quenya Alassëa Hristomerendë! Alassëa Vinyarië! Romanian Cr?ciun fericit ?i un an nou fericit Russian ? ?????????? ????????? ? ? ??????????? ????? ????? Serbian (Orthodox) ??????? ?? ???? ? ?????? ???? ?????? Serbian (Non-Orthodox) ?????? ????? ? ?????? ???? ?????? Sicilian Bon Natali e filici annu novu Sindarin Mereth Veren e-Doled Eruion! Garo Idhrinn Eden Veren! Slavomacedonian ?????? ????? ? ???? ?????? Slovak Veselé vianoce a š?astný nový rok Slovenian Vesel Boži? in sre?no novo leto Somali Ciid wanaagsan iyo sanad cusub oo fiican Spanish ¡Feliz Navidad y próspero año nuevo! Swedish God jul och gott nytt år Tagalog Maligayang Pasko at manigong bagong taon Thai ??????????????? ??????????????? Turkish Yeni y?l?n?z? kutlar, sa?l?k ve ba?ar?lar dileriz Ukranian B??????? ?????? ? ? ????? ????? Urdu ???? ??? ????? ?? Uzbek Yangi Yil Bilan Vietnamese Chúc Giáng Sinh Vui V? và Chúc N?m M?i T?t Lành Welsh Nadolig llawen a blwyddyn newydd dda Xhosa Siniqwenelela Ikrisimesi EmnandI Nonyaka Omtsha Ozele Iintsikelelo Zulu Sinifesela Ukhisimusi Omuhle Nonyaka Omusha Onempumelelo

Saffron Buns

This blog is about Venice and Photography not Scandinavia....but I think that due to the connection between St Lucy and Venice this recipe is a must!

The secret to making these mildly sweet pastries—based on a recipe given to us by Gunilla von Heland, a food editor in Stockholm—is to steep the saffron in hot milk before incorporating it.

 

MAKES 32 BUNS

INGREDIENTS

2 1?4-oz. packages active dry yeast 2 cups milk, heated to 115° 2 tsp. saffron, lightly crushed 3?4 cup plus 1 tsp. sugar 6 1?2 cups flour 3?4 tsp. kosher salt 3 eggs 12 tbsp. unsalted butter, cut into 1?2" cubes, softened Canola oil, for greasing 64 raisins, for garnish

INSTRUCTIONS

1. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a paddle, mix together yeast, milk, saffron, and 1 tsp. sugar; let sit until foamy, about 10 minutes. Stir in the remaining sugar, along with the flour, salt, and 2 eggs. Mix on low speed until dough forms and gathers around the paddle. Replace paddle with dough hook and add butter; knead on medium-high speed until dough pulls away from sides of bowl, 8 minutes. Transfer dough to a large bowl greased with oil and cover with plastic wrap; let rest in a warm place until doubled in size, 1 hour.

2. Divide dough into 32 pieces and roll each piece into an 8"-long rope. Form each rope into an S shape and then roll each end into a tight spiral.  Place shaped dough pieces 2" apart on parchment paper–lined baking sheets; cover with plastic wrap and let rise in a warm place for 30 minutes.

3. Heat oven to 400°. Uncover the dough pieces and place a raisin at the center of each of the spirals. Lightly beat remaining egg with 1 tbsp. water and brush each bun with egg mixture. Bake until buns are golden brown and cooked through, 16 minutes. Transfer buns to a wire rack and let cool for at least 10 minutes before serving.

Ephiphany

Regata della Befana with Arzana'

La Befana vien di notte Con le scarpe tutte rotte Col cappello alla romana Viva, Viva La Befana!

Christmas in Venice

Father Christmas wearing boots to cope with seasonal high water walks along Riva degli Schiavoni in Venice.

The Christmas of most of the old Italian writers as well as  Dickens and even  Hollywood movies is all about family, friendship, compassion and goodwill for all , it is about the “Christmas Spirit”  that  stands for core religious values. On the other side The Christmas that you see every day is about demanding or try to sell expensive gifts, selfishness, eat as much as you can, getting drunk.

I hope you belong to the first category but whatever you choose a Merry Christmas to all my Catholic friends!

A usage of one of my images in Vanity Fair Italy

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• The True Spirit of Christmas (socyberty.com)