Exploring Culinary Traditions Across Borders

When it comes to culinary treasures, the humble quince has a surprising ability to bridge cultures. Known as mela cotogna in Italian and birsalma in Hungarian, this fruit has long been transformed into a luscious treat known as cotognata. As I’ve discovered, this delicacy has deep roots in both the Venice area and rural Hungary, connecting these regions through shared traditions.

A Tale of Two Cotognatas

Cotognata is a seasonal delight often made at home and gifted during the holidays in Venice. The process involves slowly cooking quince with sugar until it becomes a thick paste, then moulded into blocks or small decorative shapes. It’s a quintessential winter treat, served alongside cheese or as a sweet finish to a meal.

In rural Hungary, quince preserves (birsalma sajt) play a similar role. Market stalls in small villages proudly display slices of this amber-coloured delight, often cut into geometric shapes. It's a popular addition to cheese platters or eaten as a simple snack, reflecting the Hungarian penchant for preserving the fruits of their labour.

Both traditions share a love for transforming a hard, almost inedible fruit into something magical through patience and care—a fitting metaphor for the resilience and creativity of these regions.

A Recipe for Cotognata: The Sweet Bridge Between Venice and Hungary

Here’s a simple recipe to make cotognata at home, blending the essence of both traditions.

Ingredients:

1 kg (2.2 lbs) quince, peeled, cored, and chopped
750 g (3¾ cups) granulated sugar
Juice of 1 lemon
Optional: Cinnamon stick or vanilla pod for a spiced twist

Instructions:

Prepare the Quince:
- Wash, peel, and core the quince. Chop into small pieces.
- Place the pieces in a pot of water with a splash of lemon juice to prevent browning.
Cook the Quince:
- Boil the quince until soft, about 30-40 minutes. Drain and let cool slightly.
- Mash the cooked quince into a puree using a food processor or hand blender.
Simmer with Sugar:
- Weigh the puree and add an equal weight of sugar (typically around 750g for 1kg of quince).
- Return to the pot and add lemon juice. If desired, include a cinnamon stick or vanilla pod.
- Cook over low heat, stirring constantly, for 1-2 hours. The mixture should thicken and turn a rich amber color.
Shape and Dry:
- Spread the mixture evenly into a greased or parchment-lined dish.
- Let it set for 24-48 hours, then cut into blocks or decorative shapes.
Store:
- Wrap in wax paper or store in an airtight container. Cotognata keeps for several weeks.

A Shared Heritage on Your Table

Whether enjoyed in Venice or rural Hungary, cotognata represents more than just a sweet treat—it’s a symbol of tradition, resourcefulness, and the joy of shared flavors. As you try this recipe, imagine the bustling markets of Hungary or the festive kitchens of Venice, and let this simple dish connect you to these two unique worlds.